Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Encountering the Culture

   
            This blog post is actually Jonathan’s idea. He has listened to my verbal analysis and answered questions and the other day he suggested I write a post about my experiences. So, here it is!

            One of the biggest cultural differences between the USA and the Dominican Republic is the speed at which things move. In the States everything is punctual and precise. That is not the case here! What would take 10 minutes in the USA takes a minimum of 45-60 minutes here, and that’s moving fast. For example, Jonathan had to go to the bank to reactivate his debit card. It had been inactive long enough that a new one needed to be issued. Not a big deal, they hand it to you over the counter, you call a toll-free number and poof, you are good to go (allow 30 minutes after calling before first use to make sure the activation worked). This would take maybe 10 minutes going into a bank branch in the states. It took 45 minutes and a bouncing between bankers before Jonathan was given a new card. But that was a fast pace for the culture. Ordering supplies at the hardware store takes 3x times longer than it should due to polite conversation and the laidback nature of taking your order. The neighborhood hardware stores (called ferreterias) pull all the supplies for you and there is a lot of discussion of the item pulled. Only in the big stores can you actually pull your own items and even then there is a lot of looking at it and asking questions about it. Now, I know I am not knowledgeable in tools, but a 2.5 inch wood chisel is a 2.5 inch wood chisel, no need to measure and discuss it. What are you discussing anyway? How the metal was made?  I did buy a couple of tools for my Dad while still at home and it was a fairly straightforward process even for someone who is not a tool guru. I walked in Lowes, went to the correct section, matched the tool, asked a question if necessary, paid, and drove home. No standing there discussing anything or holding polite conversation just in-and-out so work could continue.   

            Bartering, that’s another drastic difference. Although we do barter some in the States, it’s nothing like here. It’s a given that you will barter over a lot of things like souvenirs, taxi rides, street vendors, open air markets, etc so you almost never pay the stated price. At one store I was admiring a piece of jewelry (I love the bling) and the man stated 900 pesos. When I said no he immediately dropped it to 600 and when I pointed out a different thing to Jonathan (just because I was expecting to see it there) he named me a price for two pieces and sacked them before I could respond. After bartering back and forth I got only one for 500 but the bartering was required for a purchase (one I originally had no intention of making). Jonathan also barters taxi prices, something I have never seen done in the States, but is normal here. The taxis are already so cheap compared to the States but Jonathan knows when they are taking advantage of me and my non-Spanish, the situation, or just trying to make a little extra cash. He does not stiff or low-ball them, but at the same time he knows that 400 pesos for a 10 minute ride is way too high 150-200 is much more reasonable and the going (ha ha, pun!) rate. However, the bartering volute requires the taxi to start high so that both can compromise and feel good about themselves; the one for getting a good deal, the other for being generous and dropping the price.    

             Another big cultural difference is motorcycles. Here they are abundant but you have to watch them like crazy. Most street robberies occur from motorcycles because they are fast, easy to maneuver and very common. One thing though is that they are easy to hear. When walking if we hear one, we turn and look at it so they know we know they are there. If deemed a threat, there are several options but fortunately, we have not had an issue as of yet. This is usually because Jonathan walks on the outside and my purse and any bags we have are between the two of us, not making an easy snatch-and-grab for the bikes. The best thing is to have nothing visible which is easiest when we both have pockets. Money in a pocket, phone in a pocket jewelry that needs to be shed in a pocket, nothing visible = no target. Even though I am not in a dangerous area very often, Jonathan has already taught me to watch motorcycles regardless of the area; the ones to be super aware of? Two riders (particularly 2 male riders) on a fast bike.  

            One hobby that Jonathan and I share is people watching. When I tell this to people I get two basic reactions: 1) that’s creepy 2) it’s interesting (The latter reaction is usually by other people watchers). However, I can learn a lot about a person by just watching them. When someone challenged me on that I told them things about them that I noticed by watching. It unnerved them a little when they discovered what could be picked up on by an observer. Anyway, I say all of that to prep this next cultural encounter: walking like a Dominican. This sound weird but it’s true; Dominicans have their own style of walking. There is also a difference between Dominican men and Dominican women strides. The women usually walk with a firm command and the guys a little more laid back, firm and sauntering…especially pronounced in the late teens-mid 20s bunch. The way couples walk together is also interesting, usually allowing me to tell who is in charge of the relationship and if the man is abusive. I am currently working on my “Dominican walk” and I have already put it into practice on solo adventures to the pharmacy, colomado and ferreteria. Jonathan’s Dominican walk never went away but did lessen in the States, its coming back here though! He does not saunter but he does have a laidback and firm walk…especially in the more sketchy areas. It is interesting to observe this slight change in his stride and it clues me in on the areas we are in, that and his eyes as his head pivots more in sketchy areas. But that is another section altogether.

              A huge cultural thing here is baseball. Big shock I know, but it is a BIG deal here. Imagine American’s passion about football and multiply it by 2 or 3 and you have the Dominican’s passion about baseball. The playoffs were going on when we first arrived in the DR and now the 9 game final series is in progress. Jonathan’s team leads 4-1 and watching the reactions of people doing a game is hysterical! The other day we streamed a game and watched it in our house. Jonathan, his Mom, his friend Ronald, and I were there and I enjoyed watching Jonathan and Ronald almost more than the game! In February the Caribbean series is being held in Santo Domingo with teams from Mexico, Puerto Rico, Cuba and Venezuela coming to play. That also proves to be an interesting dynamic!

             Public transportation is also a bit of a culture shock. I have ridden in taxis and buses before, that's not a big deal...however, here its VERY different! Dominicans cram as many people as they can into these buses, taxis, motorcycles and trains. The train is fun...flat out fun....even crowded. I do have crowd anxiety (it is getting better but it still exists) but the train does not bother me. I look forward to trips on the train because it is fast, cheap and easy. it costs 20 pesos (about $0.45) to ride one way. I love it! The taxis are more expensive but I enjoy those rides as well because it allows me to learn the routes there and get to know my city pretty well. However, because they are more expensive ($3.00 to $6.00 for the distances we travel the most) Jonathan don't take them as much as I would like. However, buses and cars traveling set routes are only about 25 pesos ($0.50) per person so we take those a good amount of the time. Those get packed! They have 6 people + the driver in a 5 seat car and buses get so packed they have people on the sides...that usually happens only during rush hour though. It is certainly different from the States! 

            Another thing about public transportation is that it runs about every 5-10 minutes. the buses in Cincinnati ran every 60-90 minutes which made planning the day of errands hard and you had to stay on schedule or getting a bus home would be hard. Not so here! It is actually not stressful in that regard, especially because I know if we miss the last car or bus of the day, we can get a taxi without an issue. However, due to needing to be home before or shortly after dark, missing the last car or bus is unlikely. 

           There is so much more I could talk about but I am going to stop here for now. Let me know if there is something in particular you would like to know about and I will try to address it. Until next week, adios all y'all!    

             

             

Tuesday, January 19, 2016

Moving On



       I was sending some pictures to someone through WhatsApp and at one point they responded: “I hope your moving on day was good….”. I realize this was a typo and was supposed to read “moving in day” but I was struck by the trueness of the statement. I am/was moving on. I was moving into my house and bidding the team of Americans/English speakers behind. I was now becoming fully immersed in Dominican culture, lifestyle, and even food. No more iced tea and free refills, no more being able to strike up a friendly conversation with a stranger, no more being independent…for a while. I did not realize how much language played into being independent until coming here.

       I am moving on from my past, from what I have known, from the culture I am accustomed too. It makes me think of the song from Fiddler on the Roof “Far From the Home I love”. The 2nd born of the daughters decides to follow her fiancé to Serbia where he has been sent as punishment for causing in uprising in Russia. She leaves everything she knows because her heart now belongs to that man and she follows him to become his wife there; in that frozen wasteland.

      Moving on is a hard concept to grasp. Moving forward, although the same concept; sounds and feels different. There is just something about “moving on” that I cannot explain, it feels final… but I may be the only one that thinks that.

     Bidding farewell to Jonathan’s sponsor on Wednesday night marked the beginning of the end of my “moving on” process. I have no return ticket to the USA as of now, and my only “normalcy” to American culture is our cat in the house.

      I reflect back on my two heroines in scripture. As cliché as it sounds, my heroines are Ruth and Esther. They both had “moving on” days in different ways. For Ruth I think it was when she married an Israelite but then again when she left Moab to follow Naomi. Esther’s was much more sudden. She was living a normal life but was then thrust into the Persian harem to display her pretty face before the king. Talk about culture shock! At least I was not taken suddenly from home and thrust into a harem to try to compete for the prettiest face and such. I had time to think, accept and process. And unlike Ruth, I will not have to leave my country if I become a widow. I have it better than my heroines, but to know they had to handle difficult “moving on” days is a comfort in this transition process.

        We celebrated our 2 month anniversary on Friday and went out to dinner with friends. The restaurant we went to was right on the ocean and it was relaxing to just look out at the waves and smell the salt water. There is a big difference to me between just seeing and hearing the water and smelling it. This was another moving on moment. I have never lived close to the ocean, but rather, in entirely landlocked states. Being born and raised in Oklahoma a lake 2 hours away was my “beach” and then moving to Tennessee there were only rivers. Moving to Cincinnati for school, again, only provided only a river, so being three blocks from the ocean is amazing. When people told me the ocean was relaxing I thought it was just because they grew up near one so it reminded them of home. Well, no, it is actually relaxing, even for people like me raised on the plains of the Midwest.

        But I think we have all had “moving on” experiences. It could be leaving a job, moving from your family home, moving cities to follow a job, getting a new pet after the loss of one, going back to school, etc. Some moments are big, others are not; but each has a challenge in its own right. It's how we handle these moments that make us like Esther or Lot's wife. 

      Although the jury is still out on my "moving on" actions, one thing is for sure; Toto, I don't think we are in the USA anymore...
  


Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Our House


     Our house is coming along! No longer is it a cinder block, dark, dingy, sad little room. It finally is starting to look like a home. Our living space is about 425 sq. feet not counting our tiny bedroom and bathroom. Overall I would say our entire house does not exceed 625 sq. feet. However, it is our home and I am looking forward to making it as beautiful and “homey” as possible. I plan on dedicating this post to the development of our house. Also, it looks like my china has made it in one piece! Yay!                    

A mission team came in and spent 2 full days and 3 half days converting our place. They started by building an entrance for our home. We now have a small covered patio and a window was built into the new L shaped wall. In addition, a hole was knocked out so an additional window could be added to the front wall, giving me three windows in the main space. (I am all about the natural light and cross-breeze!) The crew also knocked out a doorway between our living area and our bedroom so they are now connected. (The bedroom and bathroom each have a small window already so I am a happy camper with so many windows!) The 2 doorways into Jonathan’s parent’s home were cinder blocked closed so that our house is now completely separate, but share an interior wall….much like a duplex.   

Funny story #1: In our team of 6 there are two girls counting myself. One day it was necessary for all the guys to go do something so they left us two girls to start knocking a hole in the wall for a window. We worked and worked on it, chiseling a basic outline connecting drilled holes.  We drew a crowd of interested onlookers. However, when they guys got back and started swinging the sledge hammer, 3 other guys (2 were complete strangers) came over and took turns swinging. The other girl and I just looked at each other….guys never give up a chance to compete with each other/show off I guess! 


      The first thing I chose for my new house was the kitchen cabinets (This was advised by the team leader working on my house). The one place I did not wish to purchase anything was Ikea. However, due to the time of day and the time crunch we thought we had, it was the only place that sold the readymade cabinets we needed. I ended up picking something completely different then I thought I would. I have always been drawn to darker wood/cherry cabinets, however, I walk into Ikea and fall in love with grayish, beechwood, textured, cabinets. I looked at all my options but I just loved those so those were the ones that we purchased.

The next thing I had to pick was a paint color. The walls where the cabinets would be hung had to be painted before they were mounted. My original plan was for a lavender color to be used but after picking my cabinets I did not think that would work. However, Jonathan and I each took a mental picture of the cabinets and went to look at color swatches. Even though the cabinets have a gray tone, it is slightly purplish. So, we chose a very light purple and hoped it would work. After painting the walls and holding a cabinet door up next to it, we are both very pleased with the color. It is perfect! The purple is almost white looking in the light but as the day ends the purple darkens up and it is absolutely stunning! I could not be happier!

Funny story #2: while I was waiting for the primer on the walls to dry, one of Jonathan’s close friends was there. He asked me what the real color would be and I told him purple. He was very surprised and informed me (not bad or judgmental or anything) that “here in the Dominican, purple is never done. It’s always pink, green, blue…” (imagine a thick accent and a robotic listing off of colors). I was slightly concerned but Jonathan said that it is just not very common but it is done here some. Regardless though, I love my purple walls!


The next thing to pick out and purchase was the front door. Obviously a very important purchase! Almost everything is custom made to the opening rather than there being a standard size you can go to the store and get. After striking out with one such attempt at a door purchase, we finally found an unfinished wood door with the correct dimensions the next day. It was a “standard” size (duh) but by no means was it the only size. But we purchased the door and frame (treated wood to prevent termites) for 4,000 pesos or about $80-$85. It now needs a custom paint job…yay! I am still working on that design but I have several ideas.



However, during our fruitless search for a door we went into a store selling some electronics and appliances. We found a cute little stove on sale for 10% off and I totally loved it! Free delivery sealed the deal and for less than 15,000 pesos (Approx. $300) I became the proud owner of the cute little stove/oven. I am so excited! I can’t wait for it to be hooked up and working!


Our projects this week include leveling our floor and installing the electrical. We still have a lot to do, but thanks to the team a lot was done and done pretty quickly. At least it looks like a house instead of a garage! Thank you so much team!




Fun fact: Jonathan turned 31 on Monday and for his gift he got a Calico kitten. The Church Jonathan and I attended (and got married at) in Cincinnati is located on Kemper Rd. So, the kitty is named “Kempurr” in honor of the street and to be a little funny!






Cutting rebar for the new wall


Opening a doorway into the bedroom


Mixing mortor 


I even helped!


Blocking up a doorway


My entry with a new window!


Raising the window in my kitchen so I can have a sink there


Mounting cabinets...it's a science apparently! 


Jonathan installing our door 
(with a friend holding it...thus the random hand at the top of the door)


My stove in my little kitchen!

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Hello from Santo Domingo

Hello again! I am sure you all know that this has been a crazy (and busy) week! We arrived safe and sound at about 2:10 on Dec. 31st. After spending an abnormally long time in customs we finally got through and went to the car rental place. We finally got to the housing after many errands and crashed hard. Friday saw the arrival of 6 members of the team and the rest arrived on Saturday.




 Friday was another errand day as was Saturday. We went to the open air market and I made my first produce purchases there. For the equivalent of about $5.50 I got a large bottle of honey, a ginger root, some fruit called zapote (used in smoothies, cannot be eaten raw) and an avocado.






On Sunday we went to Jimaní…pronounced (“he-mah-nEE”). It is a city on the “frontier” which is the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic. It is a city full of poverty stricken people with a majority of the roads still made dirt and it being located in a desert. A VBS was held at the church there and about 200 children were in attendance. It was a 5 hour drive from Santo Domingo to Jimaní and a bus was hired due to the number of people going. Our driver was awesome and even backed up narrow, bumpy roads with a trailer without a problem. Jonathan and the driver are friends so it was cool listening to them talk even though I could not understand everything they were saying. 

Tuesday we began work on several projects simultaneously. One is plastering the inside and outside of a poor church in Santo Domingo, another is work on our house.




Down the street from where we are staying is a large nativity/Judea scene. It is different every year so not all the figures are used every time. These two ladies are sisters and the blonde is the main one behind the whole thing. 

         
  
    New Year’s and 3 King’s Day are real big here in the Dominican Republic. We landed at about 2:15ish on the 31st and I was just too tired to stay up for fireworks. However, the city was already starting to shut down and prepare for partying. Although 3 King’s Day is on Jan. 6th, the Government decided to make the legal holiday on Monday. That has made going to the bank difficult because they closed at 1:00 on the 31st and does not open until Tuesday morning. We could exchange some money however so postponing setting up bank accounts and such was/is okay. 

I think the hardest part for me so far is the lack of a hot shower. The only warm water available is either heated on the stove by yourself or if you wait until later in the day, the water stored in the container on the roof might provide one quick slightly less chilly shower. There is very little water pressure but that is not a hard adjustment. Jonathan showed me a way to “shower” using water heated on the stove and although it is an extra step, it beats taking a cold shower any day. He also has helped me wash my hair separately which is good until I can figure out how to do it without his help. I am not about putting ice cold water on my head!

The rest of this blog will be pictures. I hope you enjoy them!


A fairly normal sight in the DR



The same motorcycle


On the road to Jimani





 My last view of the US mainland for an 
unknown amount of time


A cool tunnel in Santo Domingo


Armed guards outside the bank.
This is normal at every bank in the DR